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I was given a clipper to repair; it’s a classic task, where a plastic moulding has snapped in pieces. Ordinary glues don’t seem to stick to the surfaces well enough, and the part breaks again later, but I’ve found a better way: I used Bondic. I’ll show you why.
The first thing I did was to clean off the remains of the previous attempt. And I wasn’t afraid to remove some of the plastic, too. That may seem strange, but there’s a reason. Bondic only sets when it’s activated by UV light, so if you were to try to activate a thin layer, it wouldn’t work well, because the Bondic in the middle wouldn’t get activated.
To get a good weld with Bondic, you need a gap for the light, and to get a gap without changing the size of the part, you need to remove some material. I also rounded the corners, again to help the light get in. With the corners rounded, light can get in and set the Bondic properly. I removed all the dust.
In my experience, the weakest link in a bond is not the glue itself, but in how well the glue bonds to the surface. When a bad joint fails, you normally find that all the glue is connected to one side or the other. That’s why I started by welding a thin layer of bondic to each surface even before trying to join the parts together. You have all the time you need to ‘wet’ the surface, and it only sets when you activate it with the UV light.
In this case, when I tried to match the parts together, I found that I’d been a bit generous with the Bondic, so I used a file to flatten it down where the meniscus has drawn it up too high. I cleaned the dust off (again) and grabbed some tacky-stuff, you’ll see why in a moment.
I used the tacky to hold the piece in place. I wanted it held exactly right while I made the final bond. Now it’s almost right, I can put the Bondic on the surface ready. This part is very important, and here’s the reasoning why I used Bondic instead of an ordinary glue. I wanted the broken piece to be positioned perfectly. You just can’t do that with so-called “super” glue because it sets on you, and your fingers end up glued together.
The reason Bondic opens a new chapter in DIY repair is that at this point, I can check and re-position my work as much as I like, with no danger of the bond setting before I want it to. You have to keep reminding yourself of this as you offer up the pieces to each other, that it’s not going to set before you want it to.
I set the Bondic at this point, notice how the light comes out of the other side so I can be sure it’s all setting.
Time to check out the fitting; well, it’s a bit tight, but the file will sort that out. It’s good, but as a finishing touch I’m going to add a little more to the outside, to make it stronger still.